Steven Song's Peak-bagging Journey

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Tripoli Mountain

This is my first trip with Eric Coulthard and his friend, Jim. It's hard to find peak beggers especially in Edmonton. We also have similar fitness level. I hope to go with him for more trips in the future. Eric wanted to explore some places that he never got to before, namely Cadomin area. It's east of Jasper National Park boundary and south of Hinton, located in the front ranges. We drove to Cadomin in Friday evening and we were surprised about how much snow in the first range of front country in late May... Gosh this year isn't a good year for scrambling. We thought Edith Cavell won't get into shape the whole season..... Temperature isn't low generally but the massive amount of snowfall between March and May, especially in March, Oh well...

According to government map, there is supposed to be a camping site in Mountain Park, about 15km further from Cadomin. However, we did see no sign of camping area around except for the massive mine site and a grave area. Oh well, we had to camp at trail head, Cardinal Divide Viewpoint. This area has elevation of near 2000m, and there was lots of snow around. There was a certain feel of going back to winter again..., and none of us brought snowshoes. Eric and Jim didn't even bring ice axe and crampons, nor gaiters. Good thing is we start at treeline, and we might can have a good overnight freeze so the post-holing in the morning shouldn't be that bad.

We woke up 5:30AM in the morning and set off at 6AM. Indeed the post-holing wasn't too bad. Mostly calf deep, but the snow always tried to give us surprise. Occasionally we punched through to our knees or thighs. We didn't take long to reach the correct ascent gully. Although it was snow covered, the snow wasn't deep enough to slide. The gully looks steep but actually it wasn't bad at all. There was just right amount of snow. If too deep, then we had to post-hole; if no snow, we had to deal with the tedious talus slope. We soon made to the first summit (Tripoli Mountain has three summits) at 8:30AM. Non of us has been to these mountains before, the view is breathtaking. Soon after topping out on the first summit, the long rockwall of Blackface Mountain came into views. The other side is the foothills and the prairie.

From the first summit, it's very straightforward to traverse to the second one. Again, most of the snow was calf deep, but occasionally knee deep. On the second summit, we got a good view of the third summit (the true summit), and Cheviot Mountain which you can say the 4th summit of the ridge. The true summit of Tripoli definitely looks interesting, several rock bands with mild exposure. And, to traverse to Cheviot would require dropping down to the valley floor and regain all of the elevation because there's a big cliff band blocking the direct route. Jim wasn't confident with exposure so he decided to wait for Eric and me at the col between 2nd and 3rd summit. We gonna attempt the true summit from the most direct ridge line, which involves 2 short difficult scrambling sections even if dry. We got lots of snow there. I had one axe and crampons, but ended up not using them. To get over the first rock band involves a 2m climb with only very small holds, or precisely, friction holds. Soon after that, cross a narrow snow ridge, followed by a rock ridge with half the width of Lady MacDonald's summit ridge (this is the crux step)... The drop to left was about 5m followed by steep scree so wan't too bad, but you might gonna injure. To right, it's steep snow followed by cliff bands, so might be fatal. After this crux, there's a short 2m downclimb, followed by another rock band, we squeezed under it and traversed on the left. You don't want to slip here. Definitely a difficult scramble, but manageable. We took scrambling photos on the way down.

The day continues with an ascent of Cheviot Mountain.

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Me on the summit of Tripoli
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Me on the summit of Tripoli
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Dusk light
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Dusk light
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Dusk & Cheviot Mountain
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Dusk & Cheviot Mountain
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Tripoli & Cheviot Mountain
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Tripoli & Cheviot Mountain
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Tripoli Mountain
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Tripoli Mountain
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Cheviot Mountain
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Cheviot Mountain
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Dusk light
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Dusk light
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Alpenglow in the morning
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Alpenglow in the morning
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Dawn light
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Dawn light
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Tripoli Mountain
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Tripoli Mountain
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Mt MacKenzie
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Mt MacKenzie
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Tripoli Mountain
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Tripoli Mountain
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Tripoli & Cheviot Mountain
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Tripoli & Cheviot Mountain
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Rocky Pass
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Rocky Pass
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Eric breaking trail
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Eric breaking trail
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The ascending gully
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The ascending gully
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Going up the gully
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Going up the gully
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Almost topping out on the ridge
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Almost topping out on the ridge
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Eric on the summit of 1st peak
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Eric on the summit of 1st peak
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Blackface Mountain
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Blackface Mountain
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Looking west into Jasper Park
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Looking west into Jasper Park
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Mt Balinhard & Cardinal
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Mt Balinhard & Cardinal
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MacKenzie on the right
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MacKenzie on the right
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Traversing to the 2nd peak
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Traversing to the 2nd peak
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Cheviot & Tripoli from the 2nd peak
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Cheviot & Tripoli from the 2nd peak
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Blackface Mountain
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Blackface Mountain
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Looking north from the 2nd peak
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Looking north from the 2nd peak
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An interesting cornice on the ridge
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An interesting cornice on the ridge
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Climax, Prospect, Cheviot, from summit
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Climax, Prospect, Cheviot, from summ…
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Blackface Mountain from summit of Tripoli
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Blackface Mountain from summit of Tr…
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The foothills towards east
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The foothills towards east
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Looking SE from the summit
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Looking SE from the summit
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Charlton & Unwin in the distance
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Charlton & Unwin in the distance
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Mountains towards south
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Mountains towards south
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Mt Balinhard
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Mt Balinhard
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Mt Balinhard at center
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Mt Balinhard at center
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Luscar & Leyland Mountain
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Luscar & Leyland Mountain
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Redcap Mountain
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Redcap Mountain
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Cadomin Mountain
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Cadomin Mountain
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Traverse around a rock band
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Traverse around a rock band
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Climbing up a rock step
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Climbing up a rock step
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The crux ahead
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The crux ahead
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Eric on the crux
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Eric on the crux
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Eric on the crux
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Eric on the crux
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Steep snow
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Steep snow
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A 2m downclimb
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A 2m downclimb
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A 2m downclimb
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A 2m downclimb
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Descending from Tripoli
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Descending from Tripoli
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The descending gully
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The descending gully
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Photos taken by Steven