Steven Song's Peak-bagging Journey

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Kananaskis Peak & GR338442

The ridge to Kananaskis Peak went easy until we were facing at the slab wall. I guess the easiest line is to traverse climber's right for a bit and aim for the least slabby area. We decided to stay on ridge which proved to be also good. The slab is very grippy and offers better footing than the tedious rubble. The ridge gets very exposed at places and we had to be very careful. I don't know if you can avoid these parts because we didn't even bother to search for an easier line. Judging by the fact that this is a Nugara difficult scramble, I doubt if you can find a much easier route. Now we were facing at a vertical 5m step. Neil led up this step and it proved to be very technical. It involves finger holds, arm strength, and friction. I think you can bypass this step on climber's right but that's down-sloping.

The ridge section immediately after this step has very questionable rock. This part reminds me the final traverse on Mt. Sarbach, although harder than Sarbach for sure. We had to double-check each step before moving. As you can see from these photos, if you are a fun of rubble slog, you might can bypass all of the hands-on by following the tedious slope on the right side, but I'm not sure. The difficult section isn't over yet. You still have to do some slab scrambling and exposed ridge walk to get to the summit.

We went to the west sub-summit and now we were looking down at GR338442. From Kananaskis Peak, this GR doesn't look at a peak at all, but rather a bump on the west ridge... But oh well, it's part of Nugara List, so I have to do it anyway. It's a good call actually as we got the most exciting scrambling of the day on this part. Getting there reminds me going to Southfork Mountain from Barnaby Ridge, as we gotta descend 200m, with maybe 15m regain... Following the ridge, we encountered moderate terrain here and there, until at a shear drop-off. The route goes on skier's left on scree. The scree isn't fun at all. Once the scree is over, we traversed back to the ridge crest on tedious rubble. Right before the summit, there's option for difficult scramble if you want. I bypassed it on the right side while Neil and Tyler climbed head-on. The summit offers better view down to Kananaskis Valley, as well as the impressive slab wall on Kananaskis Peak. It's not worthless.

It's pretty discouraging to see Old Baldy Mountain from GR338442... It's a long way to go, so we didn't rest but immediately turned around towards Kananaskis Peak. Once at the scree section, we decided to "scramble" up that slab wall. I guess Neil and Tyler wanted to see what's all about Mt. Northover... Anyway, it's pretty fun to get some slab climbing. Soon we got back to Kananaskis Peak's sub summit. Now we could focus on the traverse to Old Baldy Mountain.

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Photos taken by Steven