Steven Song's Peak-bagging Journey

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Gusty Peak

After a morning ascent of Mount Galatea, Neil and I continued our day towards Gusty Peak. Instead of dropping down to Chester Lake, we took a highline traverse hugging around Gusty Peak while side-sloping, in order to save some elevation loss and regain. Once getting around the corner, we had to down-climb a tricky section, followed by losing about 50m elevation. It's okay. Now we were officially at the valley leading to Gusty and Fortress. For those hikers who don't like scrambling, you'd better venture in this valley and the Three Lakes Valley, and they give a much better perspective than the tourists' Chester Lake. The trail eventually disappears into rubble field. Soon we arrived at the base of Gusty Peak.

The slope looks like a true slog, as described on others' sites. Instead of following Kane's line, we decided to ascend the rocky rib on climber's right side, which turned out to be a very good call. The ground is much more stable on this side, and the scrambling is moderate at most. Once we cut back to the main slope, it was purely rubble slog to the summit. We were surprised to see 4 others descending this peak, as Gusty isn't a popular mountain. Some of them didn't bring poles and as a result, they had to descend very awkwardly. The most eye-catching feature on this ascent is to look back at The Fortress's shear east face.

We took a necessary break on the summit, while soaking in the views. Both of us felt good on energy so we decided to bag The Fortress at the end of the day. Coming down Gusty was much better than expected as we could manage to surf at most places. It was not fine scree, but still easy to descend.

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The Fortress
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The Fortress
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The Fortress
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The Fortress
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3
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The Fortress
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The Fortress
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The slog up Gusty Peak
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The slog up Gusty Peak
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6
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Neil slogging up Gusty Peak
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Neil slogging up Gusty Peak
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The Fortress
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The Fortress
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Mount Kidd South on left
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Mount Kidd South on left
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Fortress & James Walker
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Fortress & James Walker
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11
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Mount Galatea
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Mount Galatea
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Old Baldy & McDougall
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Old Baldy & McDougall
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The Wedge & Fisher Peak
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The Wedge & Fisher Peak
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Mount Kidd South
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Mount Kidd South
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Mount Assiniboine
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Mount Assiniboine
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The Fortress
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The Fortress
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Mount Galatea
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Mount Galatea
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Kidd South
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Kidd South
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Big Sister
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Big Sister
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21
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Fortress Lake
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Fortress Lake
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The Wedge
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The Wedge
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Me on the summit
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Me on the summit
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Neil on the summit
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Neil on the summit
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The Fortress
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The Fortress
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Photos taken by Steven